There are several terms in photography that you should be familiar with. Additionally, there is a distinction between understanding what something means and being able to put it to use. In this essay, we’ll touch on it a little bit. When I first launched this website, I posted articles on photographic jargon. And today I’m somewhat updating that article.
The shutter speed of your camera may be shown in the viewfinder or on the screen’s back, depending on how long the shutter is left open. Typically, it is either a fraction or a full number.
A fifteenth of a second is 1/15.
A thousandth of a second equals 1/1000.
15″ equals 15 seconds.
The fundamental guidelines are as follows:
A FASTER SHUTTER SPEED STOPS FAST MOTION. AT 1/8000TH, THIS IS. The speed of the shutter increases with decreasing fraction size.
More motion will be caught and you’ll need to be more still as the shutter speed increases. This is excellent for photographing sceneries at night.
Less motion will be caught the quicker the shutter speed. This is excellent for capturing moving subjects, such as sporting events.
The camera will notice your unsteady hands more when the shutter speed is longer. You will thus see camera shake’s effects. While image stabilization may aid with this, using a tripod or holding the camera securely is preferable.
This may be viewed on your camera in S mode.
Aperture is often referred to as the F stop. What is apparent and what is fuzzy in your picture is controlled by how much of it is in focus or not. Additionally, it regulates the amount of light that enters your camera’s lens and strikes the sensor, which functions similarly to film.
All in all:
f1.4 = Allows for fast shutter speeds, although little is in focus
More of the scene is in focus when using an aperture of f2.8, which is ideal for portraiture.
f11 = Slower shutter speeds are required. The emphasis is on considerably more
Everything you direct your lens at should be in focus at f22, which requires the slowest shutter speeds (best utilized with a flash unless there is an abundance of strong light available).
Because the sensor is so tiny, it is probable that your smartphone or drone won’t have a variable aperture; instead, it will be fixed at one setting. In certain ways, having a functional aperture is pointless. So software is used to produce the blur.
This is also referred to as AV mode on your camera.
PRO TIP: EVEN AT F1.4, IT CAN BE HARD TO GET YOUR SUBJECT IN FOCUS, EVEN THOUGH YOU CAN GET REALLY BEAUTIFUL BOKEH. STOPPING DOWN A LITTLE WILL HELP YOU GET A BALANCE OF BOKEH AND SHARPNESS.
Bokeh – Bokeh has many different meanings. Informally, it will refer to the level of sharpness in the out-of-focus region of a photograph. However, it has been reduced to only denoting the out of focus region in colloquial use. The bokeh is impacted by several factors. More or less contrast may be added depending on the lens elements’ coatings. When there is more contrast, your topic may sometimes stand out from the backdrop. Leica apochromatic lenses often contribute to that distinctive “pop.” Bokeh is also influenced by the number of aperture blades. The bokeh balls in the backdrop might be less appealing the less aperture blades there are, although this also depends on the focal length.
The range of distance inside the topic that is acceptable in focus is known as depth of field. By changing the aperture, it may be managed.
ISO: The sensor in your camera’s sensitivity to light. Your camera will be more light-sensitive and produce grainier photos when the ISO is increased. The camera will be less light-sensitive and your photographs will be less grainy when the ISO is lowered. Shutter speeds may be increased with a higher ISO.
Excellent for usage in daylight with little grain at ISO 100
Great for usage at dusk, although with a little extra grain, ISO 400
When it’s dark outside or there’s a lot going on, ISO 1600 is considerably more suited for slowing down rapid movement.
Even better for low light and quick motion, ISO 6400 produces blurry photos.
Camera technology has advanced to the point where ISO 6400 can print photographs at 17 x 22 inches with minimal to no grain. Digital cameras provide greater flexibility with ISO than film-based cameras do. When using film emulsions, you often have to photograph the whole roll at the same ISO.
Your camera’s manual mode gives you complete control over every element of photography. Shutter speed, ISO, aperture, and a ton of other variables are all adjustable. This is your camera’s “M” mode.
The word “exposure” is often used synonymously in the photography world. It might refer to your shutter speed, a single shot, or something else entirely. Depending on the meter, your camera’s “Exposure Compensation” feature will either make your picture brighter or darker.
Depending on the shooting mode you are in (manual, aperture, shutter priority, or program), it normally works on your camera by modifying the shutter speed, ISO, or aperture.
Most of the time, you must just infer meaning from context.
The glass component that is connected to your camera’s lens. There are several lens varieties.
Prime: An unzoomable fixed focus length. They may be 50mm, 28mm, 85mm, etc. in size. Depending on the manufacturer, they often provide superior results and also feature a fixed aperture.
A zoom lens is one that can zoom in and out. When zooming in and out, lower-quality zooms often adjust their aperture based on the range. Better ones maintain the same aperture throughout the zoom ranges. Once again, this is dependent on several elements like zoom level.
Fast lenses are those with an aperture of f1.4 or greater. Slow lenses are those with smaller (less than f4) apertures.
The principal subject that the camera is attempting to capture in a photo is focus. It is what shows up in the green boxes on your camera’s LCD when using a point and shoot. It is what is plainly seen in the depth of field for a DSLR. The amount of focus will decrease when your F stop (f1.8) increases.
“Bokeh” is a term used to describe the out-of-focus region, which may provide stunning images.
Additionally, there are many focusing modes.
Anything that is extremely, extremely close up is referred to as a macro.
For very distant things, infinity (represented as a mountain symbol)
Ordinarily, Normal refers to anything between Macro and Infinity.
Additional to this are:
Allows the camera to focus for you automatically.
Manual focusing entails complete user concentration
Autofocus on one fixed topic is known as single focus.
The same as before, but with the option for hand touch-up
Continuous concentration is keeping your attention fixed on a single area or object while moving.
Similar as above but with the option for manual touch-up
Tracking Focus: Maintaining constant attention on a moving topic
When a photograph is taken, a flash of light emits from the camera. There are several kinds of flash. Here are just two illustrations.
A fill flash is a light that simply covers up any black areas.
Flash that hides red-eye
This is often represented by the lightning bolt icon on your camera.
The number of photos (or exposures) your camera will capture while the shutter is depressed depends on the shooting speed or mode.
Single – When the shutter is depressed, just one photo will be taken. You must press the shutter once again to get another image.
Continuous: When the shutter is depressed and kept down, the camera will continue to take photographs until the memory card is full or the processor is unable to add any more images to the card.
This is often shown on your camera by the three rectangles piled on top of one another.
There are several sorts of picture formats, including RAW. JPEGs are the most prevalent kind, used by most cameras and what you often see online. RAW is a significantly bigger file that is packed with data and offers greater editing flexibility. Different RAW files are created by various camera manufacturers. Olympus ORF, Canon CR3, and Adobe DNG are a few examples.
Consider it like this:
Print from a negative film
Digital: JPEG -> RAW
Not all cameras have the option to shoot in RAW. However, this is something that all DSLRs do.